Bare Root Plants

Planting Guide for Bare Root Trees, Shrubs and Vines

WHEN PLANTS ARRIVE OR ARE BROUGHT HOME

Be prepared to plant your bare root plants as soon as possible, even in cold weather. Bare root plants are dug, prepared and cold stored before shipping. They will acclimate to your current conditions. Remember, it can take up to two months for deciduous plants to root out before they break bud and produce new shoots. Evergreens and deciduous plants typically take 12-18 months to become fully established, which means care and monitoring are a long, necessary process.

Plant bare root plants while they are still dormant. If buds are swollen or already have new leaves, keep plants in a cool basement or unheated garage and wait to plant until the threat of frost has passed, or use a frost cloth or something similar to protect plants from late frosts. If the shrubs are in new growth or are in pots, keep them in a sunny window until the danger of frost has passed as they have been forced into new growth in a greenhouse.

If you cannot plant immediately:

  • Bare root plants can be kept indoors for about a week if properly cared for.
  • Keep the roots wrapped and moist. Wet the sphagnum moss around the roots a couple of times per week, if necessary.
  • Keep the plants standing upright in their packaging or with the roots covered in mulch in a cool (33-45°F), dark location.
  • If longer storage is needed, heal in the roots outside to keep the plants dormant and the roots moist, but not exposed.

BEFORE PLANTING

  1. Unwrap the roots. Moist moss is packed around the roots to keep them fresh and hydrated.
  2. Inspect the roots and plants for any injury or damage due to shipping.
    • Use a sterilized pruner to remove any broken roots.
    • If the top leader or side branches sustained breakage during transit, do not panic. Tip pruning is done immediately after planting and should correct any issues.
  3. Soak the roots in a bucket of clean, tepid water mixed with a root stimulator like Bonide® Root & Grow®.
    • Use the root stimulator and water solution to water in new plantings.
    • For trees, shrubs, evergreens, roses, berries and grapes, soak the roots for 12-24 hours.
    • For perennials like asparagus, rhubarb and strawberries, soaking is not recommended.

PLANTING REQUIREMENTS

  • Select a full-sun location (unless shade is specified).
  • Make sure the location has well-drained, organically rich soil.
  • Do not amend the existing soil. Always purchase plants that are appropriate for the soil in your garden.
    • Consider adding a beneficial mycorrhizal inoculant like MYKE®.
  • Avoid areas subjected to harsh winds.
  • Avoid low-lying areas where water and cold air can collect.
  • Follow pollination partner requirements for fruit trees, if necessary.

When digging holes:

  • Planting holes must be large enough to accommodate roots without bending, curling or overlapping them.
    • Holes for trees should be twice as wide as the root ball, with a depth of 1-2" less than the rootball. It's common for trees to be planted too deep, so keep the top of the rootball slightly above the soil line.
    • For brambles, grapes and birch trees, ensure the top of the root ball is at or slightly above the soil line when planting (inspect the plant for the previous soil line).
    • The sides of planting holes should be left rough with sharp edges, not smooth or slick, to avoid root girdling.
    • If roots are longer than your hole is wide, dig a larger hole or trim the roots so they are not bent when you spread them out in the hole.
  • If planting in grass or turf, remove a 3-4' circle from around the tree at planting (2' for shrubs).
    • Cover the bare soil with 3-4" of fresh compost or mulch after planting to help maintain soil moisture, suppress weeds and allow for enough water to get to the roots. Keep the mulch away from the stem or trunk.

AFTER PLANTING

Tip pruning guidelines by type:

  • Single whip fruit trees (main leader with no side branches)
    • If the tree is over 5' tall, prune off the top 1' to remove the terminal bud and encourage side branching.
    • Cut at a slight angle, just above a visible bud.
    • If the tree is under 5' tall, wait until it grows to that height, then dormant prune the tip to encourage side branching.
  • Branched deciduous trees (excluding fruit trees)
    • DO NOT prune the leader or tip as a single central leader makes for a stronger shade tree.
    • Remove any side branches that are below the height where you want the crown of the tree to start.
    • When finished, all remaining branches should be evenly spaced around the central leader.
  • Evergreen trees
    • Evergreen trees DO NOT require tip pruning.
  • Shrubs (deciduous and evergreen)
    • Prune all dormant shrub stems by 1/3-½.
    • Dormant shrubs with many stems may need to be thinned by 1⁄3, then topped by 1⁄3 as well.
  • Brambles (raspberries/blackberries)
    • Leave only 6" of the cane.
  • Grapes
    • Tip pruning is critical. DO NOT skip this step.
    • Immediately after planting, tip prune the strongest vine back by a few inches, leaving at least two nodes at the top.
    • If there is more than one cane, remove the weakest cane(s) entirely

Watering Newly Planted Bare Root Plants

  • Water slowly and thoroughly with a root stimulator and water mixture, ensuring all air pockets are filled.
    • When done correctly, you will see air bubbles seeping out as the water soaks in.
  • Apply 1-2" of water per tree or shrub per week (3-5 gallons every 2-3 days).
    • Do not rely solely on rain events.
    • More water may be required, especially if the weather is hot and dry.
  • Monitor soil moisture and plant behavior closely.

THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND

  • Breaking dormancy takes time. Be patient. It usually takes several weeks, but it can take a few months.
  • To produce new leaves, plants must first form new roots. As long as you follow our planting instructions above, your plants will establish well.
  • Not all plants behave exactly alike. One plant may leaf out faster than another, even if they are the same variety. Be patient and continue to provide adequate water.
  • Evergreen trees and shrubs can take longer than deciduous plants to show signs of establishing. Be patient and maintain regular, consistent watering.
    • Watch for trouble signs such as discolored needles or leaves; dropping needles or leaves; damaged or sloughing, cracked bark or stems. Trouble signs usually relate to moisture and soil composition issues.
  • If you are concerned about the viability of a deciduous plant, do a scratch test on the central leader or stems, or do some additional pruning to verify that stems still have green tissue.
  • Prune off any suckers that form beneath the graft (when applicable) or from the ground level.

Still have questions? Contact customer service at info@jungseed.com or 800.247.5864.